The Evolution of Drag Fashion: From Underground Scenes to Mainstream Glamour

Words by Roberto Broce, via MisfitLens Creative Agency

Drag culture, with its roots in theatrical traditions and underground communities, has always been an energetic and expressive art form. At its core, drag is about the transformation of identity through performance, costume, and makeup. Over the years, drag has moved from the fringes of society into the mainstream, capturing the imagination of audiences worldwide.

Drag fashion, once confined to hidden ballrooms and secret clubs, has now stepped into the spotlight. It has evolved from an underground subculture into a significant influence on global fashion. Designers, celebrities, and everyday people have embraced the bold and creative styles that drag queens have pioneered. What was once seen as outrageous or unconventional is now celebrated on runways and red carpets.

Fashion in drag culture is more than just clothing; it's a powerful form of self-expression, rebellion, and artistry. For many drag performers, fashion is a way to challenge gender norms, push boundaries, and make bold statements about identity and society. Through their fashion, drag queens create personas that inspire, provoke, and entertain, all while contributing to a broader conversation about diversity and acceptance.

Historical Roots: Drag in Theatrical Traditions

Ancient Times to Renaissance Theater

The roots of drag fashion can be traced back to some of the earliest theatrical traditions in history. In Ancient Greece, where theater was a significant cultural practice, only men were allowed to perform on stage. This meant that male actors had to portray female characters, often using exaggerated costumes and makeup to convey femininity. This practice went beyond necessity; it became an art form that set the stage for future drag performances.

Similarly, in Japan, the Kabuki theater, which began in the early 17th century, featured male actors known as onnagata who specialized in playing female roles. These actors developed intricate makeup techniques and stylized movements to embody their characters, creating a form of early drag that was both respected and revered in Japanese culture.

During the Renaissance in England, Shakespearean theater followed a similar pattern. Women were forbidden from acting, so men took on all roles, including those of female characters. The term "drag" is believed to have originated from this period, as actors referred to the long skirts they wore as "dragging" on the stage. These performances required actors to adopt not only the appearance of women but also their mannerisms, further blending the lines between gender roles in the theater.

Vaudeville and Pantomime

As theater evolved, so did the art of drag. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Vaudeville and Pantomime emerged as popular forms of entertainment, bringing drag into the spotlight in a new way. Unlike earlier periods where cross-dressing was a necessity due to gender restrictions, Vaudeville embraced female impersonation as a unique and celebrated performance art.

Julian Eltinge, one of the most famous Vaudeville performers, became a star through his exceptional talent in female impersonation. His performances were not just comedic; they were sophisticated and convincing, blurring the lines between male and female identities on stage. Eltinge’s success demonstrated the public’s growing fascination with drag, and he became one of the highest-paid actors of his time. His work in Vaudeville helped solidify drag as an individual form of entertainment, moving it beyond ensemble theater into a distinct art form in its own right.

This period marked a significant shift in drag fashion, with performers like Eltinge setting the stage for future generations of drag artists who would continue to challenge societal norms through their craft.

*Postcard from 1903 depicting two male actors, one of whom is dressed in drag. (Public domain via Wellcome Collection*)

Drag Fashion in the 20th Century: From Balls to Rebellion

Early 1900s: Harlem Renaissance and the Birth of Drag Balls

In the early 20th century, Harlem became a vibrant center for the Black LGBTQ+ community, particularly during the Harlem Renaissance. Drag balls, which originated during this period, were pivotal in shaping the future of drag fashion. These events offered a safe space for queer individuals to express themselves through fashion and performance. The balls featured participants wearing everything from sequined gowns to tailored suits, creating a unique and glamorous style that became synonymous with drag culture. This scene was tremendously important in establishing a cultural identity for the Black LGBTQ+ community, allowing them to challenge societal norms through bold fashion statements.

1940s-1960s: Post-War Counterculture

The post-war period saw a significant evolution in drag fashion, particularly with the rise of camp aesthetics in the 1950s and 1960s. Camp style, characterized by its exaggerated and theatrical nature, became a defining feature of drag fashion during this era. Drag queens adopted bold colors, outrageous patterns, and dramatic makeup, creating a playful yet subversive visual language. The influence of Hollywood glamour also permeated drag fashion, as queens drew inspiration from the iconic styles of actresses from the golden age of cinema. Additionally, this period saw the emergence of "drag mothers," experienced queens who mentored younger performers, helping them navigate the complexities of drag performance and fashion.

*Drag queens in Sydney, Australia ca. 1960s. (Image*)

1970s: Disco, Androgyny, and the Gay Liberation Movement

The 1970s were a transformative decade for drag fashion, heavily influenced by the disco era and the Gay Liberation Movement. Disco culture, with its emphasis on flamboyant nightlife, provided a platform for drag queens to experiment with bold and glamorous styles. Androgynous fashion, inspired by glam rock icons like David Bowie, became central to drag culture, blurring traditional gender boundaries. Sequined jumpsuits, platform shoes, and glittering makeup were among the key elements of drag fashion during this time. The Stonewall Riots of 1969 also played a crucial role, with drag queens at the forefront of the fight for LGBTQ+ rights, using their fashion as a form of protest and self-expression.

*David Bowie inspired a generation of androgynous fashion (Image*)

The 1980s to 1990s: Drag’s Journey into Mainstream Fashion

1980s: The Ballroom Scene and High Fashion

The 1980s were a transformative decade for drag culture, largely due to the rise of the ballroom scene. This vibrant subculture, primarily composed of Black and Latinx LGBTQ+ individuals, emerged in New York City as a space for marginalized communities to express themselves through fashion, performance, and competition. Ballroom events, also known as balls, featured categories that allowed participants to showcase their creativity in areas such as "realness," "face," and "voguing." These categories were not just about appearance; they were about embodying and challenging societal expectations through fashion and performance.

The significance of the ballroom scene was brought to mainstream attention through the documentary Paris Is Burning (1990), which captured the lives and struggles of those involved in this underground culture. The film highlighted how ballroom culture provided a sense of community and empowerment for its participants, many of whom faced discrimination and poverty. Fashion within the ballroom scene was a form of survival and resistance, with participants crafting elaborate costumes on limited budgets to create looks that would snatch trophies at balls.

The influence of the ballroom scene on high fashion cannot be overstated. Designers like Thierry Mugler and Jean-Paul Gaultier were directly inspired by the bold and daring styles seen in ballrooms. Mugler, known for his theatrical runway shows and sculptural designs, drew from the exaggerated silhouettes and dramatic flair of ballroom fashion. His collections often featured strong, angular lines and bold use of materials, echoing the ballroom’s blend of couture and street style. Gaultier, whose work celebrated gender fluidity and challenged traditional fashion norms, incorporated elements of drag and ballroom culture into his designs, such as corsetry and androgynous tailoring.

Moreover, the ballroom scene popularized voguing, a dance form that originated in Harlem ballrooms and was characterized by its angular movements, poses, and mimicry of high-fashion magazine covers. Voguing became a cultural phenomenon, influencing not only fashion but also music and dance. Willi Ninja, known as the "Grandfather of Vogue," brought voguing into the mainstream, even choreographing for music videos like Malcolm McLaren’s "Deep in Vogue." This crossover further solidified the impact of ballroom culture on mainstream fashion and entertainment.

1990s: The Grunge Movement and RuPaul’s Breakthrough

The 1990s saw a significant shift in drag fashion, influenced by both the grunge movement and the rising visibility of RuPaul. Grunge, a subculture that emerged from the Pacific Northwest, was characterized by its anti-establishment ethos and a preference for a disheveled, "anti-fashion" look. This aesthetic, marked by flannel shirts, ripped jeans, and combat boots, contrasted sharply with the glamour of the 1980s but found its way into drag fashion as a new form of rebellion. Drag queens began to incorporate elements of grunge into their looks, blending the raw, unpolished style of grunge with the exaggerated femininity and performance aspects of drag.

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During this decade, RuPaul emerged as a central figure in bringing drag culture into the mainstream. With the release of the hit single "Supermodel (You Better Work)" in 1992, RuPaul became a cultural icon, celebrated for both her music and her fashion. RuPaul’s style, which combined elements of high fashion, camp, and accessibility, appealed to a broad audience and helped to demystify drag for the general public. Her visibility on television and in the media challenged conventional ideas about gender and beauty, making drag more acceptable and admired in mainstream culture.

RuPaul’s success also led to the creation of "RuPaul’s Drag Race" in 2009, a reality competition show that has since become a global phenomenon. Although the show debuted in the late 2000s, its roots and impact are deeply tied to the groundwork laid in the 1990s. Through this platform, RuPaul not only showcased a wide array of drag styles but also highlighted the rich history and cultural significance of drag fashion. The show’s influence has extended beyond entertainment, shaping trends in fashion, beauty, and even language.

*Rupaul's hit single "Supermodel (You Better Work)"*

The New Millennium: Reality TV and Globalization of Drag Fashion

2000s: "RuPaul’s Drag Race" and the Global Influence

The launch of RuPaul’s Drag Race in 2009 marked a pivotal moment in the evolution of drag fashion, catapulting it into the global mainstream. Prior to the show, drag was largely seen as a niche subculture, celebrated within LGBTQ+ communities but often misunderstood or ignored by the broader public. RuPaul’s Drag Race changed that narrative by bringing drag queens and their artistry into the living rooms of millions around the world.

One of the most significant contributions of RuPaul’s Drag Race was its role in revolutionizing drag fashion. The show’s format, which combines elements of reality TV, competition, and performance art, challenged contestants to create elaborate, high-concept looks that pushed the boundaries of traditional fashion. Each episode’s runway segment became a platform for showcasing diverse interpretations of drag fashion, ranging from glamorous and polished to avant-garde and experimental.

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The impact of RuPaul’s Drag Race on global fashion cannot be overstated. The show introduced audiences to a wide array of drag styles, reflecting the cultural backgrounds, personal stories, and artistic visions of its contestants. This diversity helped to broaden the understanding of drag beyond the stereotypical "female impersonation," highlighting the art form’s potential for limitless creativity. As a result, drag fashion began to influence mainstream trends, with elements of drag style appearing in everything from high fashion runways to streetwear.

The show’s global reach has made drag culture accessible to a wider audience than ever before. International versions of RuPaul’s Drag Race, as well as fan communities around the world, have further disseminated drag fashion and culture, making it a truly global phenomenon. This hasn’t just made drag queens more visible; it’s also helped people embrace and celebrate gender diversity and non-conformity in different cultures.

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2010s: High Fashion Meets Drag

As RuPaul’s Drag Race gained popularity throughout the 2010s, drag fashion began to intersect more prominently with high fashion. The visibility of drag queens on a global stage caught the attention of major fashion designers, leading to a wave of collaborations that brought drag aesthetics into the mainstream fashion industry. Designers like Marc Jacobs, Moschino’s Jeremy Scott, and Vivienne Westwood began to incorporate drag-inspired elements into their collections, such as exaggerated silhouettes, bold colors, and theatrical accessories.

These collaborations were not just about aesthetics; they also represented a deeper cultural shift. By embracing drag fashion, these designers helped to blur the lines between traditional gender norms and challenge the conventions of the fashion industry. Drag queens, once seen as outsiders, became muses and collaborators for some of the most influential names in fashion. This shift was emblematic of a broader movement towards inclusivity and diversity in fashion, reflecting the changing attitudes of society as a whole.

Drag fashion also became a powerful platform for political and social commentary during the 2010s. Many drag queens used their visibility and influence to address issues such as LGBTQ+ rights, gender equality, and racial justice. Fashion became a tool for activism, with drag queens like Sasha Velour, Peppermint, and The Vixen using their runway looks to make bold statements on these issues. For example, Sasha Velour’s crowning look on RuPaul’s Drag Race featured a tribute to the LGBTQ+ community’s struggle for acceptance, symbolized through a rose petal reveal that became one of the most iconic moments in the show’s history.

This intersection of fashion and activism in the drag community highlighted the role of drag as more than just entertainment—it became a form of cultural and political expression. The collaborations between drag queens and designers, along with the use of fashion as a platform for advocacy, solidified drag’s place not only in popular culture but also in the ongoing conversations about identity, equality, and resistance.

2020s and Beyond: The Digital Age and the Future of Drag Fashion

Future Trends

Looking forward, the integration of technology, sustainability, and inclusivity is expected to shape the future of drag fashion. With the rise of digital drag, technology will continue to play a significant role in how drag fashion is created and consumed. Augmented reality (AR) and virtual reality (VR) are poised to become new tools for drag performers, allowing them to create immersive, interactive experiences that push the boundaries of traditional performance.

Sustainability is another growing trend in drag fashion. As the broader fashion industry grapples with its environmental impact, drag queens are also beginning to explore eco-friendly materials and practices. Some performers are repurposing and upcycling old costumes, while others are experimenting with sustainable fabrics and digital fashion—garments designed and worn in virtual spaces that leave no physical waste.

Inclusivity will also continue to be a driving force in the evolution of drag fashion. The drag community has always been at the forefront of challenging gender norms, and this trend will likely expand as the fashion industry becomes more inclusive of all body types, gender identities, and cultural backgrounds. Drag fashion is expected to further influence mainstream fashion by promoting these values of diversity and acceptance.

*Raja Gemini and Yvie Oddly wearing Zero Waste Daniel creations (*Zero Waste Daniel)

Final Thoughts

Drag fashion has come a long way from its underground beginnings in Harlem ballrooms and secretive clubs. What started as a subversive expression of identity has transformed into a major influence on mainstream fashion. This journey is a testament to the resilience, creativity, and boldness of the drag community. From the dazzling looks on RuPaul’s Drag Race to high fashion runways, drag has consistently challenged norms and expanded the boundaries of what fashion can be.

As we look back on this evolution, it's clear that drag fashion is more than just a trend—it's an ongoing cultural force. It’s important to keep celebrating and documenting the contributions of drag to fashion because it’s not just about the clothes; it’s about the stories, the defiance, and the celebration of identity. Every sequined gown, every outrageous wig, is a statement of self-expression and a challenge to societal norms.

Looking ahead, the influence of drag on fashion isn’t going anywhere. Whether it’s through embracing new technologies, pushing for more sustainable practices, or continuing to champion inclusivity, drag fashion will keep shaping the future. So, as we move forward, let’s continue to appreciate and support the creativity and courage that drives this vibrant culture. Drag fashion will keep inspiring and leading the way in making fashion more diverse, bold, and inclusive.